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Posted by
Dave
on Mon Jul 27 21:49:26 2015
edf40wrjww2msgDetail:detailStr fiogf49gjkf0d I've moved into the table framing and wiring phase of the layout, tentatively named the Long Island Sound Connecting Ry, since it connects Oyster Bay and Rye via trestle and bridge. Time frame is 1958-59 and will feature both LIRR and New Haven equipment along with the occasional PRR and NYC fan trip.
I'm wiring the layout for DCC but will use a disconnect plug to the wires to the NCE power panel so I can also use a conventional DC power pack since most of my engines are DC. No block wiring is being installed so when run in DC mode it will be only one engine at a time. I'll probably wire in a few SPST toggles so I can kill power to the sidings where I'll store engines not in use when in DC mode.
Here's the track plan:
What I'm constructing first is the Locust Valley leg; the Oyster Bay module; and the LI Sound leg.
Here's the table frame with the two legs abutting but not attached:
The OB module is 2' wide by 8'8" long. Note in the center of the Oyster Bay module there are two 1x4's attached to each other. Oyster Bay is a 4' module bolted to a 4'4" module.
I've almost completed the DCC bus wiring. Although many modelers (and Model Railroader magazine) advocate using suitcase connectors to attach the feeders to the bus wire, I chose to run the bus wires to a series of terminal blocks and will later attach the track feeder wires to a nearby terminal block. This will make diagnosing and repairing electrical shorts that are sure to spring up over time, much easier. The bus wires are attached to spade terminals.
Here's the segment where the Oyster Bay station will be located. On the front left is where the leg of the Locust Valley will attached to the OB module. The back left is where the Oyster Bay station will be located. If you look to the right you can see a wiring diagram on a piece of 8x11 paper; the black block in the upper left shows the location of the station:
Below you can see the two 1x4's bolted together, under the wire stripper. The bus wire runs to a quick disconnect (orange blob in the middle to the right of the wire stripper) so if I ever need to move the layout, I won't need to cut wires. I'll separate the two halves of the disconnect then unbolt the two modules. Connecting the bus wires between the OB module and the two legs also will be with quick disconnect plugs.
Note that the benchwork is on sawhorses. Eventually it will be on legs but this way after I attach the foam and lay track, I can drill holes and drop track feeders then lift up the benchwork against the wall; attach the feeders to spade terminals and then to the terminal blocks:
This is the end of the Oyster Bay module and it shows where the Long Island Sound bridge leg connects:
Although I have several more DCC engines on order (a Rapido NH FL9 and an Atlas FM H16-44), here are the engines I currently own. Most are 15 - 20 years old and never run. Not shown is a brand new Atlas DCC NH RS-1 and a Proto 2000 DC NYC E7A and E7B. I know I have a B&M RS-3 somewhere and probably an engine or two I'm forgetting about!
Most of these likely will remain in the display case. All are DC except where noted:
Top left is a Proto 2000 NYC FA1 and FB1. Below that in Warm Orange is a pair of Walthers NH FA2s. To the right is an Atlas NH RS3 in McGinnis livery. Below the A-A pair is a Con Cor DCC LI MP54. No sound on this one, just the motor decoder. It will be "towed" behind a diesel because the OB branch is not electrified! On the bottom left is a Proto 2000 NH PA1 pulling the Merchants Limited.
Top center is a Proto 2000 NYC F7 unit, followed by a Proto 2000 NYC E8. Two rows down is an Atlas DCC LIRR RS-3 and it runs and sounds like a champ! The engine on the bottom right is a custom painted DL-109 that started out as an unpainted Athearn engine. The painting was done by Hobbytown and I must have bought it close to 20 years ago if it was a day.
I just have a bit more bus wiring to complete and then I'll glue foam to the benchwork. After that I'll lay the track plan down on the foam and take some more pictures and post them.
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